C
Garnet Campbell
G C
EST 1928
TIMBER CONCRETE FAQ's CONTACT HOME ABOUT US GALLERY SANDING The Trusted Name in Flooring....since 1928                                       Copyright  2013. All Rights Reserved. Garnet Campbell Limited.                               No parts of this website, including content, images and concepts my be reproduced without the permission of the owner.
FAQ's
Pricing
We can give you an approximate cost over the phone if you know the area that needs doing and can tell us the condition of the floor. But we recommend you use our free onsite quote service for an accurate quotation. We do have a minimum charge for small jobs.
Removal of existing floor finishes
If required, as an additional service we can remove and dispose of carpet, vinyl, tiles tacks and staples in preparation for the sanding and polishing process.
We can also do the floor preparation for trades such as carpet, vinyl and tile layers.
Preparation of the surface
Nail holes, deep scratches, stains and gaps between boards.
For a smooth and uniform look some floors will require nail punching and hole filling as well as trowel filling of gaps and cracks. If a more rustic look is required these can be left unfilled.
Black water stains are often very deep into the timber especially around nail holes and cannot be sanded out.
Sanding / Grinding
A variety of flooring types can be sanded, including timber, cork, particleboard, and parquet.
Concrete will require grinding. Sanding / grinding is the process of removing the weathered, stained or damaged surface material to expose the undamaged material below. This is usually achieved by starting with a coarse abrasive to remove any existing coatings and flatten the surface, then moving through a series of finer abrasives to achieve a smooth consistent finish. The final grade of abrasive depends on the material and finish being used.
Machines used
Timber floor sanding and concrete grinding are completed with specialised machinery. For timber floors, large belt sanders are used with smaller edging sanders used around the walls and in small areas. A progressive sander is then used for the fine sanding prior to the coating application.
Concrete grinding is a similar process with a single head coarse grinder to remove existing finishes and flatten the surface, then a triple head finishing grinder is used to achieve a fine finish smooth surface ready for coating application.
Dust
Dust is obviously created during the sanding or grinding process. Our machines have their own dust collection systems or are attached to an external dust extractor. We also vacuum between coats and when we are finished. We do everything we can to avoid dust but there will still be some fine dust in the air. We recommend that you cover your curtains, computers, and electrical appliances. 
Coatings
Traditional polyurethane is spirit based, has a very strong smell and takes around 24 hours to dry.  Water based polyurethane, has a much lower level of odour and takes around 4 hours to dry. Both take around seven days to fully harden.
Sheen levels                         
Matt finish - has no shine at all. Low sheen - has a dull low level shine. This is the most popular finish and the one we recommend.                   
Full Gloss - is a very shiny, mirror like finish.
Please note that the full gloss finish is very unforgiving and will show defects, marks, dirt, scratches and dents much more than the lower sheen finishes.
Staining
Timber is a natural product and two floor boards sitting side by side can be different colours and take the same stain differently. Any colour sample supplied is an indication of the intended colour only and may differ from the finished colour due to the differing characteristics of timber.  For best results a sample from the same batch of timber should be used for any colour sample and you should be present on site when the stain is first applied. 
Painting of skirtings and door jambs
We recommend that the final coat of paint be done after the floors are finished.
We have to sand right to the very edges and our sanding machines will sometimes leave rub marks on the skirtings which can be painted over with the final coat.
Preparation for our arrival
You need to clear all furniture and appliances out of the area to be worked on. Curtains should be covered and any computers and electrical appliances in adjacent areas should be covered. We make every effort to keep dust to a minimum but there will be some in the air.
Plants should be removed as they will not like the fumes.
Following application of the finishes
You cannot walk on the finish for at least 24 hours after application and only socks should be worn for a day or two after that. Furniture should not be moved in for at least 48 hours.
We recommend that you find alternative accommodation during the application process and for the first 72 hours following it to avoid the fumes and to avoid damaging the fresh finish.
Do not drag anything heavy across the floor as you risk scratching it.
Place felt pads under any furniture or appliances sitting on the floor.
Stilettos heels will damage wooden floors and should never be worn on them.
Cleaning
Use an anti-static mop to remove dirt and dust or a vacuum with the brushes down to avoid scratching. Clean regularly with a damp mop and warm water with a mild detergent. Do not soak the floor as this can get into cracks and scratches which will damage the finish. Also avoid the use of steam cleaners for the same reason. Avoid using wax based cleaners as this will make the floor dangerously slippery. Avoid using silicone based cleaners as they can cause problems if you want to have the floor recoated at a later stage.
Maintenance
We recommend a light sand and topcoat application every two or three years to protect the floor maintain that new floor look.
Are timber floors colder?
Timber is an insulating material and with under floor insulation that ranges from simple moisture barriers to Batts and polystyrene, your house can become warmer than having carpet alone.
What's under the carpet and vinyl
The most commonly used flooring timber up until about 1970 was Rimu however Kauri, Matai and some Pine were also used. More modern homes used particle board which can also be sanded and polished.
Heating and humidity
Like everything timber expands and contracts with heat and cold. It is also hygroscopic which means it absorbs and releases moisture from the air. This also expands and contracts the timber. From season to season you may see the timber joins open and close slightly, especially in rooms that are subject to large changes in temperature eg direct sunlight.
Too much movement too fast can cause the timber to buckle and bow.
All forms of heating and air conditioning affect the temperature and humidity of the timber especially under floor heating. Therefore any changes in heating should be done gradually; with under floor heating this should be done incrementally at only 1 or 2 degrees per day until the desired temperature is reached.
When laying new floors we will usually leave the new timber on site for a couple of weeks to let the timber acclimatise to the new environment. This helps minimise movement after it is laid.
FAQ's
C
Garnet Campbell
G C
EST 1928
The Trusted Name in Flooring....since 1928                          Copyright  2013. All Rights Reserved. Garnet Campbell Limited. No parts of this website, including content, images and concepts my be reproduced without the permission of the owner.
FAQ's
Pricing
We can give you an approximate cost over the phone if you know the area that needs doing and can tell us the condition of the floor. But we recommend you use our free onsite quote service for an accurate quotation. We do have a minimum charge for small jobs.
Removal of existing floor finishes
If required, as an additional service we can remove and dispose of carpet, vinyl, tiles tacks and staples in preparation for the sanding and polishing process.
We can also do the floor preparation for trades such as carpet, vinyl and tile layers.
Preparation of the surface
Nail holes, deep scratches, stains and gaps between boards.
For a smooth and uniform look some floors will require nail punching and hole filling as well as trowel filling of gaps and cracks. If a more rustic look is required these can be left unfilled.
Black water stains are often very deep into the timber especially around nail holes and cannot be sanded out.
Sanding / Grinding
A variety of flooring types can be sanded, including timber, cork, particleboard, and parquet.
Concrete will require grinding. Sanding / grinding is the process of removing the weathered, stained or damaged surface material to expose the undamaged material below. This is usually achieved by starting with a coarse abrasive to remove any existing coatings and flatten the surface, then moving through a series of finer abrasives to achieve a smooth consistent finish. The final grade of abrasive depends on the material and finish being used.
Machines used
Timber floor sanding and concrete grinding are completed with specialised machinery. For timber floors, large belt sanders are used with smaller edging sanders used around the walls and in small areas. A progressive sander is then used for the fine sanding prior to the coating application.
Concrete grinding is a similar process with a single head coarse grinder to remove existing finishes and flatten the surface, then a triple head finishing grinder is used to achieve a fine finish smooth surface ready for coating application.
Dust
Dust is obviously created during the sanding or grinding process. Our machines have their own dust collection systems or are attached to an external dust extractor. We also vacuum between coats and when we are finished. We do everything we can to avoid dust but there will still be some fine dust in the air. We recommend that you cover your curtains, computers, and electrical appliances. 
Coatings
Traditional polyurethane is spirit based, has a very strong smell and takes around 24 hours to dry.  Water based polyurethane, has a much lower level of odour and takes around 4 hours to dry. Both take around seven days to fully harden.
Sheen levels                         
Matt finish - has no shine at all. Low sheen - has a dull low level shine. This is the most popular finish and the one we recommend.                   
Full Gloss - is a very shiny, mirror like finish.
Please note that the full gloss finish is very unforgiving and will show defects, marks, dirt, scratches and dents much more than the lower sheen finishes.
Staining
Timber is a natural product and two floor boards sitting side by side can be different colours and take the same stain differently. Any colour sample supplied is an indication of the intended colour only and may differ from the finished colour due to the differing characteristics of timber.  For best results a sample from the same batch of timber should be used for any colour sample and you should be present on site when the stain is first applied. 
Painting of skirtings and door jambs
We recommend that the final coat of paint be done after the floors are finished.
We have to sand right to the very edges and our sanding machines will sometimes leave rub marks on the skirtings which can be painted over with the final coat.
Preparation for our arrival
You need to clear all furniture and appliances out of the area to be worked on. Curtains should be covered and any computers and electrical appliances in adjacent areas should be covered. We make every effort to keep dust to a minimum but there will be some in the air.
Plants should be removed as they will not like the fumes.
Following application of the finishes
You cannot walk on the finish for at least 24 hours after application and only socks should be worn for a day or two after that. Furniture should not be moved in for at least 48 hours.
We recommend that you find alternative accommodation during the application process and for the first 72 hours following it to avoid the fumes and to avoid damaging the fresh finish.
Do not drag anything heavy across the floor as you risk scratching it.
Place felt pads under any furniture or appliances sitting on the floor.
Stilettos heels will damage wooden floors and should never be worn on them.
Cleaning
Use an anti-static mop to remove dirt and dust or a vacuum with the brushes down to avoid scratching. Clean regularly with a damp mop and warm water with a mild detergent. Do not soak the floor as this can get into cracks and scratches which will damage the finish. Also avoid the use of steam cleaners for the same reason. Avoid using wax based cleaners as this will make the floor dangerously slippery. Avoid using silicone based cleaners as they can cause problems if you want to have the floor recoated at a later stage.
Maintenance
We recommend a light sand and topcoat application every two or three years to protect the floor maintain that new floor look.
Are timber floors colder?
Timber is an insulating material and with under floor insulation that ranges from simple moisture barriers to Batts and polystyrene, your house can become warmer than having carpet alone.
What's under the carpet and vinyl
The most commonly used flooring timber up until about 1970 was Rimu however Kauri, Matai and some Pine were also used. More modern homes used particle board which can also be sanded and polished.
Heating and humidity
Like everything timber expands and contracts with heat and cold. It is also hygroscopic which means it absorbs and releases moisture from the air. This also expands and contracts the timber. From season to season you may see the timber joins open and close slightly, especially in rooms that are subject to large changes in temperature eg direct sunlight.
Too much movement too fast can cause the timber to buckle and bow.
All forms of heating and air conditioning affect the temperature and humidity of the timber especially under floor heating. Therefore any changes in heating should be done gradually; with under floor heating this should be done incrementally at only 1 or 2 degrees per day until the desired temperature is reached.
When laying new floors we will usually leave the new timber on site for a couple of weeks to let the timber acclimatise to the new environment. This helps minimise movement after it is laid.
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