Garnet Campbell
EST 1928
03 354 4684
admin@garnetcampbell.co.nz
FAQ's
Pricing
We can give you an approximate cost over the phone if you know the area that
needs doing and can tell us the condition of the floor. But we recommend you
use our free onsite quote service for an accurate quotation. We do have a minimum
charge for small jobs.
Removal of existing floor finishes
If required, as an additional service we can remove and dispose of carpet,
vinyl, tiles tacks and staples in preparation for the sanding and polishing
process.
We can also do the floor preparation for trades such as carpet, vinyl and tile
layers.
Preparation of the surface
Nail holes, deep scratches, stains and gaps between boards.
For a smooth and uniform look some floors will require nail punching and hole
filling as well as trowel filling of gaps and cracks. If a more rustic look is
required these can be left unfilled.
Black water stains are often very deep into the timber especially around nail
holes and cannot be sanded out.
Sanding / Grinding
A variety of flooring types can be sanded, including timber, cork,
particleboard, and parquet.
Concrete will require grinding. Sanding / grinding is the process of removing
the weathered, stained or damaged surface material to expose the undamaged
material below. This is usually achieved by starting with a coarse abrasive to
remove any existing coatings and flatten the surface, then moving through
a series of finer abrasives to achieve a smooth consistent finish. The final
grade of abrasive depends on the material and finish being used.
Machines used
Timber floor sanding and concrete grinding are completed with specialised
machinery. For timber floors, large belt sanders are used with smaller edging
sanders used around the walls and in small areas. A progressive sander is then
used for the fine sanding prior to the coating application.
Concrete grinding is a similar process with a single head coarse grinder to
remove existing finishes and flatten the surface, then a triple head finishing
grinder is used to achieve a fine finish smooth surface ready for coating
application.
Dust
Dust is obviously created during the sanding or grinding process. Our machines
have their own dust collection systems or are attached to an external dust
extractor. We also vacuum between coats and when we are finished. We do
everything we can to avoid dust but there will still be some fine dust in the air.
We recommend that you cover your curtains, computers, and electrical
appliances.
Coatings
Traditional polyurethane is spirit based, has a very strong smell and takes
around 24 hours to dry. Water based polyurethane, has a much lower level of
odour and takes around 4 hours to dry. Both take around seven days to fully
harden.
Sheen levels
Matt finish - has no shine at all.
Low sheen - has a dull low level shine. This is the most popular finish and
the one we recommend.
Full Gloss - is a very shiny, mirror like finish.
Please note that the full gloss finish is very unforgiving and will show defects,
marks, dirt, scratches and dents much more than the lower sheen finishes.
Staining
Timber is a natural product and two floor boards sitting side by side can be
different colours and take the same stain differently. Any colour sample
supplied is an indication of the intended colour only and may differ from the
finished colour due to the differing characteristics of timber. For best results
a sample from the same batch of timber should be used for any colour sample
and you should be present on site when the stain is first applied.
Painting of skirtings and door jambs
We recommend that the final coat of paint be done after the floors are
finished.
We have to sand right to the very edges and our sanding machines will
sometimes leave rub marks on the skirtings which can be painted over with
the final coat.
Preparation for our arrival
You need to clear all furniture and appliances out of the area to be worked on.
Curtains should be covered and any computers and electrical appliances in
adjacent areas should be covered. We make every effort to keep dust to a
minimum but there will be some in the air.
Plants should be removed as they will not like the fumes.
Following application of the finishes
You cannot walk on the finish for at least 24 hours after application and only
socks should be worn for a day or two after that. Furniture should not be
moved in for at least 48 hours.
We recommend that you find alternative accommodation during the application
process and for the first 72 hours following it to avoid the fumes and to avoid
damaging the fresh finish.
Do not drag anything heavy across the floor as you risk scratching it.
Place felt pads under any furniture or appliances sitting on the floor.
Stilettos heels will damage wooden floors and should never be worn on them.
Cleaning
Use an anti-static mop to remove dirt and dust or a vacuum with the brushes
down to avoid scratching. Clean regularly with a damp mop and warm water
with a mild detergent. Do not soak the floor as this can get into cracks and
scratches which will damage the finish. Also avoid the use of steam cleaners
for the same reason. Avoid using wax based cleaners as this will make the
floor dangerously slippery. Avoid using silicone based cleaners as they can
cause problems if you want to have the floor recoated at a later stage.
Maintenance
We recommend a light sand and topcoat application every two or three years
to protect the floor maintain that new floor look.
Are timber floors colder?
Timber is an insulating material and with under floor insulation that ranges
from simple moisture barriers to Batts and polystyrene, your house can
become warmer than having carpet alone.
What's under the carpet and vinyl
The most commonly used flooring timber up until about 1970 was Rimu
however Kauri, Matai and some Pine were also used. More modern homes
used particle board which can also be sanded and polished.
Heating and humidity
Like everything timber expands and contracts with heat and cold. It is also
hygroscopic which means it absorbs and releases moisture from the air. This
also expands and contracts the timber. From season to season you may
see the timber joins open and close slightly, especially in rooms that are
subject to large changes in temperature eg direct sunlight.
Too much movement too fast can cause the timber to buckle and bow.
All forms of heating and air conditioning affect the temperature and humidity of
the timber especially under floor heating. Therefore any changes in heating
should be done gradually; with under floor heating this should be done
incrementally at only 1 or 2 degrees per day until the desired temperature is
reached.
When laying new floors we will usually leave the new timber on site for a couple
of weeks to let the timber acclimatise to the new environment. This helps
minimise movement after it is laid.
Garnet Campbell
EST 1928
FAQ's
Pricing
We can give you an approximate cost over the phone if you know the area that
needs doing and can tell us the condition of the floor. But we recommend you
use our free onsite quote service for an accurate quotation. We do have a minimum
charge for small jobs.
Removal of existing floor finishes
If required, as an additional service we can remove and dispose of carpet,
vinyl, tiles tacks and staples in preparation for the sanding and polishing
process.
We can also do the floor preparation for trades such as carpet, vinyl and tile
layers.
Preparation of the surface
Nail holes, deep scratches, stains and gaps between boards.
For a smooth and uniform look some floors will require nail punching and hole
filling as well as trowel filling of gaps and cracks. If a more rustic look is
required these can be left unfilled.
Black water stains are often very deep into the timber especially around nail
holes and cannot be sanded out.
Sanding / Grinding
A variety of flooring types can be sanded, including timber, cork,
particleboard, and parquet.
Concrete will require grinding. Sanding / grinding is the process of removing
the weathered, stained or damaged surface material to expose the undamaged
material below. This is usually achieved by starting with a coarse abrasive to
remove any existing coatings and flatten the surface, then moving through
a series of finer abrasives to achieve a smooth consistent finish. The final
grade of abrasive depends on the material and finish being used.
Machines used
Timber floor sanding and concrete grinding are completed with specialised
machinery. For timber floors, large belt sanders are used with smaller edging
sanders used around the walls and in small areas. A progressive sander is then
used for the fine sanding prior to the coating application.
Concrete grinding is a similar process with a single head coarse grinder to
remove existing finishes and flatten the surface, then a triple head finishing
grinder is used to achieve a fine finish smooth surface ready for coating
application.
Dust
Dust is obviously created during the sanding or grinding process. Our machines
have their own dust collection systems or are attached to an external dust
extractor. We also vacuum between coats and when we are finished. We do
everything we can to avoid dust but there will still be some fine dust in the air.
We recommend that you cover your curtains, computers, and electrical
appliances.
Coatings
Traditional polyurethane is spirit based, has a very strong smell and takes
around 24 hours to dry. Water based polyurethane, has a much lower level of
odour and takes around 4 hours to dry. Both take around seven days to fully
harden.
Sheen levels
Matt finish - has no shine at all.
Low sheen - has a dull low level shine. This is the most popular finish and
the one we recommend.
Full Gloss - is a very shiny, mirror like finish.
Please note that the full gloss finish is very unforgiving and will show defects,
marks, dirt, scratches and dents much more than the lower sheen finishes.
Staining
Timber is a natural product and two floor boards sitting side by side can be
different colours and take the same stain differently. Any colour sample
supplied is an indication of the intended colour only and may differ from the
finished colour due to the differing characteristics of timber. For best results
a sample from the same batch of timber should be used for any colour sample
and you should be present on site when the stain is first applied.
Painting of skirtings and door jambs
We recommend that the final coat of paint be done after the floors are
finished.
We have to sand right to the very edges and our sanding machines will
sometimes leave rub marks on the skirtings which can be painted over with
the final coat.
Preparation for our arrival
You need to clear all furniture and appliances out of the area to be worked on.
Curtains should be covered and any computers and electrical appliances in
adjacent areas should be covered. We make every effort to keep dust to a
minimum but there will be some in the air.
Plants should be removed as they will not like the fumes.
Following application of the finishes
You cannot walk on the finish for at least 24 hours after application and only
socks should be worn for a day or two after that. Furniture should not be
moved in for at least 48 hours.
We recommend that you find alternative accommodation during the application
process and for the first 72 hours following it to avoid the fumes and to avoid
damaging the fresh finish.
Do not drag anything heavy across the floor as you risk scratching it.
Place felt pads under any furniture or appliances sitting on the floor.
Stilettos heels will damage wooden floors and should never be worn on them.
Cleaning
Use an anti-static mop to remove dirt and dust or a vacuum with the brushes
down to avoid scratching. Clean regularly with a damp mop and warm water
with a mild detergent. Do not soak the floor as this can get into cracks and
scratches which will damage the finish. Also avoid the use of steam cleaners
for the same reason. Avoid using wax based cleaners as this will make the
floor dangerously slippery. Avoid using silicone based cleaners as they can
cause problems if you want to have the floor recoated at a later stage.
Maintenance
We recommend a light sand and topcoat application every two or three years
to protect the floor maintain that new floor look.
Are timber floors colder?
Timber is an insulating material and with under floor insulation that ranges
from simple moisture barriers to Batts and polystyrene, your house can
become warmer than having carpet alone.
What's under the carpet and vinyl
The most commonly used flooring timber up until about 1970 was Rimu
however Kauri, Matai and some Pine were also used. More modern homes
used particle board which can also be sanded and polished.
Heating and humidity
Like everything timber expands and contracts with heat and cold. It is also
hygroscopic which means it absorbs and releases moisture from the air. This
also expands and contracts the timber. From season to season you may
see the timber joins open and close slightly, especially in rooms that are
subject to large changes in temperature eg direct sunlight.
Too much movement too fast can cause the timber to buckle and bow.
All forms of heating and air conditioning affect the temperature and humidity of
the timber especially under floor heating. Therefore any changes in heating
should be done gradually; with under floor heating this should be done
incrementally at only 1 or 2 degrees per day until the desired temperature is
reached.
When laying new floors we will usually leave the new timber on site for a couple
of weeks to let the timber acclimatise to the new environment. This helps
minimise movement after it is laid.
